Vilankulos 26 -30 May, Inhassora 30/5 to 1 June

Saturday 26^th- Sunday 27th May 2012

We left Pomene at  7h00 after a false start the previous day. We found out at the last moment that there was a truck broken down  across the road and we would not be able to get passed it. We spent another day at Pomene, which is so beautiful that there could be far worse places to be stranded. During the day they told us that they had managed to move the truck slightly to the side, so we would be able to leave.
Still quite a hectic drive out, especially when you come around the corner to find  the truck is still very much in the road. At one stage in the overgrown, deep sand section we heard a big thud but could not stop there. When we were able to stop we found branches stuck under the boards on the roof and thought that this was the noise. However when we arrived in Vilankulos and started setting up, we realized that our crank out awning was missing from the side of the truck. We think that this must be sitting in the trees somewhere along the Pomene road. Management at the resort are trying to see if anyone has seen it on the road.
We tried to see if we could extend our tourist visas at the airport here in Vilankulos, but no luck, we may be able to do it in Beira.

We are staying at Blue Water Beach Resort on the south side of Vilankulos. We are the only people here and it is very peaceful. We are using the gazebo for a bit of shade but hopefully we can make a plan to replace it or something. The sites have grass and they have a gorgeous infinity pool overlooking the Bay

view from pool

We are hoping to do a dhow trip over to Maguruque Islands on Tuesday to do some snorkelling, this will be weather dependant.

We have had a very chilled out day at Blue Waters and went over the road to a lovely little restaurant with a pool and awesome pizzas.

Pizza at restaurant over road

Tomorrow, being Monday we are hoping to get a chappa into town and to find a wi-fi connection to pay accounts, update blogs and do some much needed work. We are keen to explore the town and to stock up on some groceries.

Sunrise from Blue water Beach lodge

On Tuesday morning we met Captain John and Martenengo on the beach at 7h00 to go on their dhow Papaya across to the Magaruque Islands. It was a beautiful morning with not much wind. It took us three hours to get across to the island. Once we were there we snorkeled on this stunning reef and saw some amazing sea life. They made us an amazing seafood curry for lunch. We spent some time collecting shells and swimming. The tide then went out and the whole reef where we had been snorkeling was exposed. It is amazing the difference in tidal zones here. It goes from about 4m depth to less than a metre. The wind had picked up a bit in the afternoon when it was time to head back to the mainland and it took us 2 hours back.

Dhow at sunrise

Martenengo & Captain John

Dhow at Magaruque

Marquee with reef in background

30 May to 1 June - Inhassoro

The road - 15km - into Inhassora from EN1 is the width of a single lane, so when a car / truck / taxi comes, you drive with one wheel on the left hand dirt road. generally game of chicken happans

half on - half off

Beach in front of Seta campsite in Inhassora

On the left hand side as you enter Inhassoro, before the turn off to Bartholomew Dias Lodge, there is a little bakery that churns out the most delicious pao, rolls and sweetbuns.



Bryce & Aimee running up to bakery

Just outside the Seta campsite

Huge spider at campsite

Staying at Seta Hotel and campsite. leaving tomorrow for Beira where we are hopefully getting our passports extended then on to Gorongosa National Park  going to be a long day.

Pomene 18 - 26 May

Pomene : Friday 18 -24 May

Well done to Grant in getting us here! Whew we arrived. This is definitely 4x4 territory . The sand roads down to the boom where the reserve starts is relatively good sand roads. From here the sand roads get gets thicker and the bush closes in on you. Bushwakka truck definitely deserved its name. We got all the way to the campsite without getting stuck, after some scary, white knuckle moments.  Arriving here, Bentu,  from Pomene was showing us where to park the truck to camp and we proceeded to get stuck in really deep,soft sand. Fortunately we had help to flatten the sand and lay down some leaves under the wheels. FUN TIMES! Then we were free and off to a different site to camp.

Grant letting tyres down at entrance to reserve

 Just when you think the setting cannot get any better, it does. Pomene is absolutely beautiful. On the one side you have the sea and on the other side it opens into the most beautiful, crystal clear  lagoon /estuary and mangroves. Pomene Lodge is situated on a narrow sand spit which separates the lagoon from the sea, so at the end of the day you see the fishing boats cruise right in to the estuary.

Sunrise over the sea

In the morning you can see beautiful sunrises over the sea and in the afternoon the sunset over the lagoon.

Sunset over the lagoon

At the restaurant area they have a stunning big pool which we have practiced snorkeling in, it has a little bridge that passes over the pool.

Swimming pool at Pomene

We have paddled on the lagoon with our orange Synergy and used the paddle boards to try get out to the little islands where the flamingoes are nesting.

Mitch paddling to Flamingoes

We have made friends with some fellow campers here, Jana and Wihan, who have been out spearfishing almost everyday. They have caught some huge fish of which they gave us  Kuta, rainbow runner, kingfish etc. We have had the best fresh fish almost everyday and the restaurant makes the most divine fresh breadrolls for 6 Mets. Some of the locals come around every odd day and we have been able to buy bananas, naartjies and paw-paw. Also got some sweet potatoes from them the other day.

Big fish that spearfisherman caught

We met up with Nick and Nelia from Tofu at Pomene and went with them to the Old Hotel Site. This beautiful hotel was evidently finished just before  the war and  never operated. It lies now abandoned and in ruins with the most beautiful private beach. At low tide we snorkelled  in the rock pools in front of the hotel.

Rock pools in front of old hotel

Lion fish in rock pools

Bryce at mini hole in the wall

 Grant and Bryce went out with Nick on the boat fishing. Nick caught 2 Kingfish and 1 Rainbow runner while spearfishing and they very kindly invited us for lunch.

Photo from in front of Old Hotel

Once the tide started to come in later we went to the beach side of the point and the boys surfed here and the rest of us swam.

Mitch surfing

Later in the afternoon once we were back at the campsite and the tide was right in, we went snorkeling out to the barge. They have a man made reef near the barge where they dropped an old  landrover down. We saw some really big box fish, angelfish and we have found some beautiful pansy shells.

Snorkelling in lagoon

We met another lovely couple from Eastern Free State, Martin & Maretha who were holidaying with their granddaughter, Kaitlyn. Maretha taught us how to make stokbrood on a stick in the fire. We joined them the one morning for a lovely day at the Old Hotel . We did some more snorkeling and swimming and walked onto the point where we watched Grant & Bryce boogie boarding and you have a clear view of all the fishing boats. You can even see across to where the Bazaruto Archipeligo starts with the binoculars. We stopped at the local village, Pomene City on the way home for a cold 2M(Dosh M) beer and, “Maria biscuits.” Kids love these local marie-biscuits.

Martin & Maretha are such a well travelled couple with so many interesting stories to tell.

In the afternoon, Wihan and Jana took us out on their boat to the other side of the estuary and we went snorkelling near the mangroves. They also took us to the man made reef and we also saw a whole lot of pansy shells. We have met such lovely people here at the campsite and hope to keep in contact.

Morrungulo

Tuesday 15^th - Friday 18^th May
After leaving Bamboozi in the morning we stopped at the garage to fill up with diesel before heading to Morrungula. The kids did some school work in the truck while we sat outside the little delhi and had some coffee. They fortunately had a wi-fi  connection here that we could do our last post as we have no internet connection at Morrungulo and Pomene.

Schoolwork on the road

Bryce schoolworkWe arrived at Morrungulo and had to fit through a narrow entrance and down quite a steep hill to the campsite at the bottom. It is a beautiful campsite just off the beach and it has grass sites as well as lots of beautiful trees for shade. It is such a nice change to have grass on the site, as you get very used to having sand as your bedfellow in Mozambique.

View of Morrungula beach

 The surf was not as strong while we were here, so the days settled into a pattern of lots of long walks & early morning runs on a long stretch of beautiful, flat beach. The kids did loads of boogie boarding in the sea and caught some long rides from the entry point back down the beach.

The tall & short with boogie boards

 They have an awesome  pool at Morrungula which is up at the restaurant with a stunning view over the bay, we practiced some snorkeling here in anticipation of our next stop at Pomene.

We bought some fish from the locals on the beach and there is a local bakery at the entrance to the campsite. Ricardo’s bakery makes the most delicious Portuguese rolls for 3Mets. The locals catch these huge fish just off the beach with hand lines.

Fresh Fish

Ricardos Bakery

We found the most beautiful shells on the beach just in front of Morrungula  as you walk down  to the left towards  Sylvia Shoal. Bryce found a starfish and Aimee discovered a huge turtle shell.

Shell seakers

locals

Bryce’s Morrungula post:

The campsite we stayed at is called Morrungula. It has lovely grass sites, a swimming pool and it is very close to the beach.

16 May 2012

This morning we went to the beach and boogie boarded and swam in water as warm as a heated swimming pool. After the beach we went to the pool.
17 May 2012
This morning we boogie boarded again and went up to the pool and walked to buy some delicious bread. You must see how this man bakes his bread, he has made his own oven.
P.S. I found a starfish on the beach.

Bakery oven

Bryce’s starfish

Dhow trip to Magaruque island

On dhow trip to Magaruque Island

Day Dhow trip to Magaruque Island to snorkel on reef and have fish curry on beach

Road closed

We were all packed up, account settled, truck idling and then Lol gets told that a truck broke down yesterday on the really bad sandy section and so we can't leave until its fixed. Would have been easier if they told us yesterday when they knew, but now all packed up. Will have to stick around, but it now cuts into our Vilanculos time as on a schedule to hit Zimbabwe border before visas etc expire

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Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note Android phone

Visa, TIP and third party - detour

Sorry no blows but internet a problem. can get email of cheap enough. At Pomene at present, heading to Vilanculos around Friday.

SA tourist visa, temporary import permit for truck and 3rd part insurance only lasts 30 days, so we are going to have to head for Zimbabwe border at Mutare after Vilanculos. We are hoping be able to just stamp out and back in (as told by someone) or just walk over to Zimbabwe border 2km away. If be take truck over we will be hit with road tax, import permits, and every bribe out there, and will then have to pay road tax in dollars again when re-enter Mozambique again- just to extend our stay. So its going to be "fun"

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Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note Android phone

Bryce doing angles - Singapore maths

Aimee at sunrise at camp

Aimee sunrise. Sun rises over sea on one side of Pomene campsite and set in the calm bay on other side of campsite. Its at the point of a narrow peninsula with amazing snorkling in bays reef. Eating fish every day. No internet so going to try by sending mms again. Leaving Pomene in few days for Vilanculos

Last day Tofo

Monday 14 May – Inhambane/Maxixe

This morning  we walked up to the market along the road and waited for the bus to Inhambane. The bus was broken down closer to town ,so we took a chappa(taxi) for 75 Mets to Inhambane. When we got to town we were needing to try and find an inverter as ours has blown, so we did a fair bit of walking to and fro in search of an electrical shop of sorts.
We then headed down to the jetty to catch a dhow across to Maxixe, pronounced  Masheesh. This is a 62km trip around by road. We were able to get Captain John and his crew of Pedro, to take us over for 500 Metacais return trip (About R150 for all 5 of us there and back. It is a very busy little port with lots of locals catching the motorized ferry with all their wares, which always looks dangerously overloaded.
Evidently once a year in November they have a traditional race on Inhambane Bay and the prize money can amount to as much as a years earnings.

We had an amazing trip on the dhow. It was so peaceful hearing the lap of the waves against the boat and the flapping of the sails in the wind. It took us about 40 minutes there. We then walked around Maxixe for a bit and then headed back to Captain John and his dhow for our trip back. We saw some flamingos on our trip over and we counted 71 jelly fish on our way back.

 Dhow trip

Once back in Inhambane we walked over to the Casa Da Capitao  Hotel, which is a really smart hotel on the waters edge in Inhambane.  We had visited it once before and knew we would not be able to afford to eat there.  We had some cooldrinks and shared a very cheap meal of  bread and pate and then didn’t feel so bad about using their beautiful  pool.

Swimming at Casa da Capitao

Bryce on Dhow

Dhow back to Inhambane with cathedral in background

On the walk back to town we went passed the old cathedral near the jetty, with an imposing new one that is over the road from the 18^th century Cathedral. We went to the bakery and bought some awesome rolls and the divine pao . After that we went to stock up on groceries at the Chinese Supermarket. Back to the market to get a chappa to Tofo village. We got our own private chappa for 250 metacais as we were all tired and keen to get back to Bamboozi. Taxi dropped us at Tofo market where we picked up our fresh vegetables and a coconut for the kids to try. They reckon the juice is overrated but the flesh is palatable. Back along the beach and “home again.”

Tasting of coconut

We went down to the beach this evening for Bryce to do a small memorial for his friend Bom who tragically passed away. He had written a letter which we burnt in the coconut shell and he then threw it out to sea. Was quite an emotional  experience and is still hard to believe.
Remembering Bom in Mozambique
Tomorrow we will be leaving for Morrungulo which is about 200km away. Will try post more when we are able to.

Remembering Bom in Mozambique

Tomorrow we will be leaving for Morrungulo which is about 200km away. Will try post more when we are able to.

Mozambique Tofu Bamboozi - 11-13 May 2012

Have been having the most amazing weather here, where everyday is more of the same. We have settled into a semi-routine where we wake up, have a  small breakfast. Grant & Bryce generally head down to the beach and Bryce surfs. Mitch, Aimee and I go for a short run along the beach towards the market, buy fresh bread and veggies for the day and then a gentle stroll back  along the beach.

Bamboozi Restaurant from beach

Morning run

Bryce surfing

Today ( Saturday), Grant & Bryce took the scooter to market, where they met us for a swim after our run and then Aimee hitched a ride back with Grant.

Grant & Aimee on scooter.

The rest of the day was fairly lazy with some housekeeping chores to be done. Clothes washing, spring clean of motorhome, haircuts  and of course the obligatory swim/surf/boogie board.

Moz hair salon

 Went to look at the Tofhino side of town, some beautiful spots there.

Tomorrow( Sunday) we are hitching a ride to Barra Lodge to have a look at Lighthouse campsite on the way, as well as have a mothers day breakfast and to use the wi-fi to update the blog.

To our two very special grannies, we wish you a very Happy Mothers day and hope you have an awesome day. We love you lots.

Sunday 13 May 2012

Have had a fantastic day, woke up and got some chocolates for mothers day which is a real treat. We got a lift with one of the managers Dee Dee and her husband Henry to Barra Lodge. We were taken on the scenic route which runs parallel to the coast. They stopped off to let us see the Barra Lighthouse campsite on the way, the most amazing views over the Barra Bay. We are still deciding if we should go and stay there or do Inhambane and dhow over to Maxixe as we are going to be a bit tight on our 30 day tourist visa and will need to go out of Moz and back in again to renew. Their little 4 year old son, Reece, was our tour guide on the back of landrover and the kids really enjoyed the ride as well as the last stretch to Barra on the beach.
As Phil Collins would say,"Another day in Paradise." We had the awesome buffet breakfast at Barra and caught up with Jani who used to work at Bamboozi and is now at Barra. "We had joy, we had fun, we had seasons in the sun!" Chilled at the pool, did some route planning, kids read and enjoyed the pool. At about 14h00 we started walking back to the point where the taxis collect. We only had to wait about 15minutes and then we piled in. We counted 27 of us by the time we hit half way, 4 hanging off side and 2 on the back. It was great to drive passed the small villages and get the feel of a lazy Sunday in local Moz. Lots of them just hanging out, some on there way to play or watch soccer.

outside Barra Lodge

poolside

Restaurant in background

Walking to first chapa stop

The first stretch of our trip only took about 40 minutes and cost us 25 Metacais/R7-50, when we got to Barbalaza the taci continued to Inhambane. We had a long wait and eventually decided to take a local Isuzu taxi to Bamboozi at about 10 times the rate. 250 Metacais/R75.
There was no wi-fi available at Barra today, so we are back at Dino's Beach Bar. Our first visit included a pizza and now we have resorted to the local beer(2M) and fruit juices. We may become alcoholics doing this blog.